Hot take: stitching is one area where vintage Chanel REALLY shines versus Hermès.
Let's take a look at two beautiful examples in the wave stitch and sundial.
First, we have Skylar, Wave Stitch Navy Lamb - available via website:
We love how the perfectly-circular ripples flow all around the bag, meeting right at the top.
And here, we have Hunan, Sundial Black Lamb (no longer available):
We call this the "flower" style where the concentric circles meet right at the clasp.
What makes this stitching style so difficult?
Calibration
Maintaining a perfectly straight, tightly calibrated stitch (typically 9 to 11 stitches per inch) is incredibly difficult on a wave pattern. If the machine tension is too tight, the delicate lambskin or caviar leather will pucker; if it's too loose, the thread frays or looks sloppy.
Alignment
Achieving continuous, seamlessly aligned waves across the bag's closure flap and base requires highly precise cutting and assembly. Even minor misalignments in the wave peaks or valleys are highly visible and considered defects.
What do you think of the wave stitch?